Post WCT Summary - Hiking the West Coast Trail

Was the scenery and wildlife more beautiful than I could ever describe? Yes. Without a doubt.
Was I in awe of trees so tall that the tops disappeared into the fog? Hell ya.
Was this the spirit cleansing adventure I anticipated? No. But mud detoxifies right? Did I become one with nature? Only if you count the times my ass hit the ground or when I was stabbed by sticky outy things or branch slapped.  Was this the craziest, most incredibly empowering thing Ive ever done? Yes. Absolutely.
Would I do it again? Not likely. Well my mind says maybe... my angry body says hell no woman. No chance ever.
Was it a fabulous once in a lifetime, unforgettable experience?
100% Yes.

BCA Tours -

I can't say enough about this company. It is such a well run, highly organized operation. Permits and transportation handled for you. Support and equipment, if necessary are all made available. The food was outstanding. All food home made, dehydrated and super delicious, healthy, filling snacks, all dietary needs accomodated and even desserts well planned. Coffee, a morning fave and necessity and afternoon tea, a delight. I was never hungry after a meal although it all tasted so good I could have had more.

The Guides -

 Lead guide Chris aka Bossy bitch and Kitchen bitch. A very brave man entering the woods with 9 wild women. His big smile led the way. Chris quickly became one of us. Team player for sure. Safety always came first and he gained all of our trust. Informative but also fun. Always engaged with the group and took our ribbing with a smile. Chris's tips of the day were a hit. His jokes were a hit and miss however haha. Best water boiler. Absolute best last day speech... and despite what he tells you, we were definitely his favourite group ever. Oh ya bud.

Assistant guide Jess - brilliant bitch. The fire whisperer. Bringing up the rear. 25 years of pure gold. Experienced. Knowledgeable. Patient. Tolerant and Master of all bad ass backpacking bitches. Jess is one of the reasons I made it to the end. She encouraged me to hike the WCT my way and at my pace. She understood my need to take it all in. She understood my need to breathe in every beautiful moment. Like minded and nature loving. She helped me find my foot placement when I couldn't.  She pushed my ass up and over logs or the giant step ups when my little legs failed me. She had a hand out for me whenever I needed it. She listened to my stories, laughed at my jokes and shared her stories with me. She deserves great things in life and I know she will make it happen for herself. Friends for life.

The Food -

Breakfast-
Granola with dried fruit. Breakfast of champions.
Snacks -
homemade granola crack bars, trail mix and dehydrated bananas and apples with cinnamon mmmm
Lunches-
Cheese. Salami. Crackers.
Soup and crackers. Hummus and pita. And more hummus haha
Dinners -
pasta, sun dried tomatoes and dehydrated tomato sauce
Sweet potato and chick pea curry
Alfredo pasta with broccoli
Mexican black beans and rice with corn torts
Veggie chili
Salami Jumbalaya with dried peppers (my personal fave)

The Trail -

Handy tips - wedge your feet in the rocks to avoid slipping. Green and brown rocks are slippery. Grey rocks are not. Seaweed is slippery... always. Barnacles are your friends. Grippy but not good on bare feet or hands. On the rocks, look for ridges, the spine, walk on that. Wet wood is slippery. Wet roots are slippery. Mud is slippery. ASSUME EVERYTHING IS SLIPPERY. Walk on the edges. Sometimes moss is hollow. Use your poles to find foot placement and for depth perception. Don't fear the mud. Don't fear the water. Don't fear the ladders, 3 points of contact always. Don't fear the rocks. Have NO fear. Fear will consume you. Be smart. Be safe.  Stay positive. ALWAYS. Must have a strong mental game. Treat your water and always collect it upstream... nobody wants beaver fever.

Challenges -

The rain. The humidity. The bogs. The ladders with missing rungs. A heavy pack. Faulty equipment. Wet boots. Blisters. Wounds. Sticky outy things lol. Bitch slap branches. Crossing logs. Cable cars without help. Finding a site at Thrashers Cove. Deep, wet sand. Bouldering and racing the tides. Swinging around massive trees using branches and roots like a  primate. Broken boardwalks. Giant steps. River crossings.

The Wildlife-

Eagles every day. Herons. Shit bombers. Sandpipers. Anenomes. Starfish. Urchins. Crabs. Mice. Slugs. Voles. Grey Whales. Sea lions. Seals. Sea otters. Wolves (saw tracks and heard pups).  Bears (saw two, heard one from too fn close, poop on the trail). Cougars (elusive but there) No Mosquitos!! Well the few I saw were lethargic anyway. Nothing like the vicious Ontario skeeters...

The Camps -

6 kms to Thrashers Cove. Limited space. Watch that high tide line. Bouldering for 2 hours or insane climb out.
8 kms to Campers Bay. Creek cross in or cable car. Stayed dry in the 10 year rain. 40mms. Tough climb out.
9 kms to Walbran - lots of great sites. Swim in the creek. Cable car out..
11 kms to Cribs Creek - beautiful beach and sunset. Great whale watching and the sounds of sea lions.
17 kms to Tsusiat Falls - definitely swim in the falls. Fantastic beach. Long walk to the loo (maybe it just felt long)
13 kms to Michigan Creek- Bear town. Awesome whale watching. Amazing sunsets.
All camps have an elevated compost toilet accessible by ladder (because there aren't enough on the trail) and every loo comes with a view.
12 kms to Pachena Bay Trailhead- finish via the beach if you can - didn't camp here. (drive to hotel in Victoria)

Equipment -

MSR Single tent is big enough for one. Less is more. Thermarest Questar HD Nikwax hydrophobic down sleeping bag - LOVED IT. Never cold. Osprey Backpack 65L big enough, line it with a black garbage bag and at night put your pack and boots inside said garbage bag to stay dry under the fly...pole strap broke for 2 of us on the Osprey.. Poles- one is enough but necessary, very helpful. Gaiters an absolute MUST. Waterproof boots a MUST. Clothes - Keep it light. Keep it dry. YOU WILL SMELL lol. My luxury item?? Clean gitch for everyday and enough socks. Nothing ever dries. Seriously. Rinse and wear doesn't work. Your clothes will still be damp and you will stink regardless. My regrets... wish I had packed an extra t-shirt and short shorts for camp. As for river shoes... save the weight, go barefoot when crossing and just pack light flipflops for camp. KEEN RIVER SHOES SUCK... heavy and like wearing sandpaper socks.

Hygiene -

Don't run out of toilet paper. It is not supplied. Sponge bathing is necessary. Wipes are the way to go but must be carried out with all your garbage. Swamp-crotch is an unofficial thing. A clean beaver is a happy beaver haha. Brush your teeth often, makes you feel human. Use foot glide to avoid blisters... I have banged up knees and bruises everywhere but NO BLISTERS.

Laundry-

If you wash (no soap) your clothes in the river they won't smell much better and they will not dry. Hot rocks and logs are useful in the sun. So are poles and tent lines. Extra shoelaces make good clothes lines as well. If you use a fire to dry your clothes keep in mind you will smell like a burnt hotdog for the rest of the week. Mind your laces (they catch fire quickly) and socks brown up like marshmallows. Debatable but damp clothes inside the bottom of your sleeping bag will by dried (by body heat) come morning. I put my next day clothes down there so I could change into warm clothes when I woke up each day.

The Hikers -

- Cindy BC, keener, independent, strong , leader, quiet but spunky

- Jan BC, keener, wise, doesn't swear, team player, kind, adventurer

- Jenn AB, independent, super fit, hungry, entertaining, marches to the beat of her own drum, one of a kind gem

-Andrea ON, supermom, warrior, strong, kind and honest, genuine.

- Kim ON, super bad ass, sarcastic and witty, strong, smart and funny. Caring and encouraging. A quiet leader

-Heather ON, sweet soul, tenderheart, cheeky, funny and genuine. A Warrior with the best giggle. Very supportive. A ray of sunshine.

-Adele ON,  saucy and fun, clever, witty, an absolute delight and very encouraging. Best parent talk ever. Full of love

-Me ON, aka Little legs. Saucy. Swears alot. Back of the bus. Everything is a photo op. Enthusiastic. Still smiling. Still sore haha

I have the utmost respect for all of these women who left their families to tackle one of the hardest trails imaginable. It was done with laughter, encouragement and friendship. They are wild warriors. Bad ass bitches. All different. All amazing.

In closing, would I recommend this tour group? Absolutely. Would I recommend this trail? Only to a select few. It may have been one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen but was by far the most physically and mentally challenging adventures I have ever been a part of. Do not take it lightly. I would like to take a moment to thank my guides and my hiking group for a memorable and extraordinary experience. I would not and could not have sucessfully done it without you all.
Your humour, your words of encouragement and your friendship were the fuel that kept me going. The vagina monologues will have me laughing for years to come. I'm looking forward to sharing a new trail with you in the future not to mention sharing wine and more laughter. You all have my gratitude, my respect and my friendship for always. xx

Day Ten - The Oracle, the Mountain and the Lone Wolf

Yes I skipped day nine. It was a glorious, sunny day and I did almost nothing. It felt indulgent, riddled with guilt and a lack of appreciation for my surroundings BUT what a luxury to be at complete peace. No schedule to follow. Nowhere I had to be. I had no desire to be around humans. Didn't have it in me to surround myself with noise or chatter... just silence. Silence to absorb every bit of calm, spirit and the wild nature that I just recently removed my physical body from.
I did step out to see the light of day, stretch my little legs that still plague me with pain. My knees ache with every staircase I'm forced to take in this mountain town. 

I will say that Whistler Village is the epic centre of the cool and wild, the attractive and athletic, the young and the free and probably not a place I should have chosen for alone time. It's a haven for dogs and dog owners, a patio paradise and a foodie's fantasy come to fruition. A great mecca for the adventurous and those that aspire to be. It actually happens to be the beginning of the Crankworx Festival. 

The elite and the accomplished, best of the best mountain bikers from all over the world here to compete and to celebrate. Despite all the athletic, healthy and ruggedly handsome bikers everywhere I just want to retreat back to my room and drink my wine in solitude. Not sure if I'm failing socially or perhaps it's a sign of maturity or old age. Oh God. Next I'll be wearing granny gitch and slacks hahaha

I went shopping at the Oracle and the Art Gallery until I was hungry and thirsty.

With the exception of this place, so many food choices and I just want salad and wine. Alone. In my room. The lone wolf retreating into my den to quietly lick my wounds. I'm feeling introspective, spiritual and creative. Connected in mind, body and soul. Perhaps the time in the woods and by the sea did in fact ground me and bring me the clarity of mind and the soul cleanse that I was seeking. Seven days unplugged. In the arms of mother earth and under the blanket of Grandfather sky. Alone yet supported and accepted by my soul sisters. The wild, warrior women that battled the elements alongside me. Our own little empowered army of trail walkers with our animal allies finding our way through the fog, conquering the roots of our doubts, acknowledging the significance of every step forward and embracing the power of the here and the now... and each other. Shit, that's deep. Haha

Whistler has served its purpose and provided lessons. Expensive lessons but worth every penny. Surrounded in beauty, finding my calm and now making my way home where I belong. Where my heart is, with my family and my doggo. Blessed I am to share my life with them and with you. Blessed I am to live a life of adventure and exploration. Blessed I am to see what I've seen. Blessed I am to have legs that support me and feet that are willing to keep moving one after the other. Grateful I am to wake up and live. The universe will only give you more when you are truly grateful for all that you have. I am grateful indeed.

Day Eight - On the road again

Woke up today nice and early to pack up and get ready for a 3 hour whale watching tour. I was picked outside my hotel after storing my luggage and taken to the docks in Victoria Harbour. I was suited up in a big puffy life suit. Basically a full body life jacket. 

It kept me dry and warm. A group of 10 of us were loaded into a zodiac (a big rubber boat) I was wedged in between 2 women in the 2nd last row from the back so my chance of getting a decent picture were shot. It didn't matter though in the end. It was a 3 hour boat ride and we saw no whales. We left the port at 0900 and by 0930 I had to pee. It was a beautiful, scenic boat ride. Fast and very rough. At first the excitement of a possible whale sighting was enough to distract me but by 1030 I was tortured by my expanding bladder. For the next 2 hours I couldn't think about anything other than my extreme need to pee.  At around 1130 the captain, feeling regretful about not finding us whales, asked if anybody had time restrictions. I was the only one who spoke up. I had a bus to catch. So Buddy puts me on the spot and says how about we extend the tour by 30 mins? What the hell was I going to say with 9 other sets of eyeballs staring at me?? So we went across the imaginary border into US waters in search of Orcas. Still nothing. So now we turn back at high speed but he pauses about 30 mins out from the port to prepare us for rough and open waters. He was not joking. As we continued on, the boat was bouncing off 10 foot swells and not only did I feel like I was riding a pissed off bull but I had serious concerns about rupturing my bladder. I truly could not get off that boat quick enough. Needless to say it's a good thing there wasn't a line to use the restroom. 

I managed to pick up my bags and get to the chartered bus on time downtown Victoria. It took me to the ferry, across to Vancouver and to Vancouver Airport where I rented a car to drive to Whistler. It was a beautiful and very scenic drive through the mountains.

 I had music playing and the windows open and I felt free and content. I may have belted out a song or two... or 34.
My hotel room is a little swanky  and definitely more comfortable than an air mattress in a tiny tent. The shower is like a cascading waterfall but warmer.

 I picked up some food for my in room fridge, salads that I have missed and a bottle of wine that I have missed more. I am in a beautiful mountain town full of beautiful people and hundreds of mountain bikers and I don't even want to leave my room!

Day Seven - Almost there...

An extra early start today. Only 12kms today to complete the 74km trail and a bus waiting to take us for a celebratory lunch. All forest today and just a couple of ladders.

 A stop at Pachena lighthouse and another whale sighting from high above the shore...perfect vantage point.

Another special place we stopped at was sea lion rock... the real one. We detoured here for a snack and saw 3 barking sea lions and.... more grey whales, and I finally got them on film!
Chris gave us a very memorable speech.. of course to say how proud he was of us and encourage us but also to confess how much he enjoyed our company and we got him in the feels.
The last 6 kms felt more like 600kms so when I saw the 1 km marker and I knew I could crawl out if I had to, I was beyond relieved.

We took some end of trail photos and found way too much excitement in the fact that the outhouse at the end actually supplied toilet paper. We had to carry around our own roll all week in a ziploc bag. Kind of like wearing a flag that says "I'm on my way to the shitter"

Boots came off and we took a 10 min ride to a local eatery in Bamfield and quickly ordered food and drinks. Burgers and Beers and wine all around made for some pretty happy hikers. It was a 4 hour drive back to Victoria. 2hrs of it on the roughest gravel road. My lunch was doing somersaults in my belly and it was hard on the already aching body.
There were some heartfelt goodbyes being dropped off at the hotel but a hot shower and a little privacy did some good. Yes I poured a glass of wine and walked around naked just because I could.
I met my bad ass bitches downstairs at the restaurant for our last supper and drinks. Everyone looked so clean and pretty. It was so fun and delicious and another heartfelt but final goodbye until we meet again anyway.

I'm pretty sure I fell asleep before my head actually touched the pillow.
Ive booked a whale watching tour in the morning on a zodiac although I confess I feel blessed already having seen so many.
The journey continues now on my own and I look forward to a little independent time.... not nearly as much as I look forward sleeping in an actual bed!!

Day Six - Boardwalks, Bears and Blessings

We left at 8 o'clock as per usual and started the day with ladders immediately and into the forest. It was a relatively easy day,  we hiked about 13 kilometers. We hiked in the forest, walked on lots of boardwalks, a lot of stunning views, and definitely foggy this morning which made for some beautiful forest pictures. 

We've arrived at camp and it is another oceanfront spot with a beautiful view. Still quite foggy. It's been overcast all day which I have thoroughly enjoyed. I've gone for a bit of a walk on our beach. I am very restless, always. I can't seem to settle. Can't sit still. Must keep moving. Maybe it's from lacking a comfortable place to sit. My tailbone just can't rest on a hard log and my back really only stops hurting when I'm upright.

This is bear beach and I'd be lying if I said I didn't want to see any because I do maybe not up close and personal, maybe not in my face with claws but I would like to see some more wildlife. I have seen many Eagles. I have seen many whales playing and rolling offshore today and I have seen herons. We have seen bear poop and wolf prints. Apparently the group today heard two baby wolves barking but I did not. I was busy at the back of the line just having fun with Jess and talking shit. I would be lying if I said I wasn't ready for this to be over because I am. I am very, very sore. My knees hurt, my back hurts and my quads hurt mostly from the beach walking today. There was a lot of sand, deep, deep sand and some walking on the shelf.

Very challenging when you're already sore and tired. I guess the best part is that it was foggy and not too hot. It's actually quite cold right now and I'm wearing a long sleeve shirt with a fleece sweater and a fleece vest and a winter hat. My knees are wrapped in compression sleeves and I'm wearing socks and sandals so you can imagine how sexy that looks. The tide is definitely coming in and its trying to reach my feet.

Tonight's dinner was the best yet. Jumbalaya with salami and it was fantastic... and what did we see during our meal?? Not one but two bears!!! A medium sized black bear checking out the beach (where I had been strolling earlier) and a massive black bear on the other side of the creek we crossed earlier to get to camp. We also saw many whales playing and a sea otter family playing on a rock just offshore.
To close out the night we were also blessed with the gift of chocolate.
I have become so efficient in the daily rituals of organizing my belongings, and packing up as a result every morning, has been a breeze.

It's cold in my little tent world but I feel safe and cozy and eager to hit the trail in the morning. It was a great day for wild life and that makes me smile a super, giant smile. My Dad is very much on my mind and I know he would be proud to see the joy this wild and natural place brings me. He would love this place... and he is with me in spirit.

Day Five - Wine and Waterfalls

Today was simply Wow. We started on a sea shelf covered in barnacles.  The same bastard barnacles that had me agonizing in bed last night. I had to put polysporin on my feet last night to stop the burning and to be able to fall asleep. It felt like I walked over shattered glass.
Regardless, today was amazing. Only a few ladders in the morning. We walked the beach for awhile then the forest again. Then the beach again. We saw fresh wolf tracks in the sand (from a big ass wolf with huge paws) and otter tracks. 

Then back into the forest for a very pleasant walk excitedly arriving at the Crab Shack. There was great anticipation for this little gem on First Nations land. The only little spot to get food and snacks and alcohol. It's a pretty big deal when you've been living in the woods for days. 

We spent a good 2 hours here drinking and waiting to be served. It was very, very busy and the wait was long but nobody was in a rush. There was no place we would rather have been but there. Boots were off, the sun was shining and we were all smiles. Everyone had either fish or crab with a loaded baked potato.  Some of the gang secretly bought beers to go. A couple of us bought wine to go... and chips and chocolate. We chatted with hippie Doug who gave us each a flower to eat upon arrival and let us watch him filet a fresh salmon. We also chatted with Carl, a First Nations resident and the owner of the very busy and successful crab shack who posed for pictures with us and even twerked for us. No idea where that came from but it made for lots of laughter.

After a nice glow and bellies were beyond full, Carl gave us a boat ride with his chocolate lab (I miss my Jakeyboy) to the other side of the bay to continue the trail.
It's tough to hike with a full belly. Chris was a little nervous leading us after we indulged a little and used his sing song voice to keep us in line. Luckily he didn't have to break out the Dad tone. We mostly behaved. The climb up was sobering.

 We climbed and climbed through the forest trail  where we saw our first pile of bear poop. Papa Bear had no shortage of berries. So do bears shit in the woods? Yes. Yes they do. Right on the trail.

More beach hiking then more forest hiking, then more beach hiking then camp... a total of 18 long kms. The last km I truly thought I was going to collapse from pure muscle exhaustion. Andrea and I, both bringing up the rear, agreed to call it a day if the camp we saw ahead wasn't ours. Luckily it was. A long but gorgeous day.

On the beach we were welcomed by a glorious waterfall (Tsusiat Falls) which I did not hesitate to swim in. Pretty much immediately upon arrival. I stood under the blasting cold water for as long as I could stand it... it took my breath away. I was still wearing my hiking clothes. A shower and laundry all in one. While drying up in the sun, I opened my desperately needed box of cab sauv while the rest of the gang drank their beers by the falls. Good thing I stayed back at camp because the wind kicked up and one of our bigger tents, that wasn't pegged down, decided to take a tumble towards unsuspecting campers. I ran after it yelling "heads up!!" then caught it and secured it back in its place. Kind of made me giggle and wonder how the hell did I just manage to run?? Must be the wine. A magical elixir. After setting up the rest of our tents and hanging our wet clothes, we were served a delicious veggie chili and I finished my wine by the fire with some tunes. We watched another beautiful sunset before heading off to bed. 

As I layed there after an incredible day all I could think was I am so done. So very, very done. How can something be so devastatingly beautiful and so painful at the same time?? Thank God for the sounds of waterfalls and ocean waves to calm my spirit. Despite my aches and pains (and there are so many) I do feel truly blessed and fortunate to be here seeing this magical, hidden world beyond the reaches of our imaginations. A very special place indeed... and one I am so happy to share with you. But why does everything have to hurt? Lol.

The wine helped make things right in my world again.